If you are new to rock climbing and have started your journey by yourself in a gym, then you have probably heard other climbers discussing different types of holds and techniques. If you are confused or unsure of what they are talking about, then this is a great place to start. In this post we will talk through some common terms in regards to technique and how you interact with a wall, however this will not be an exhaustive list by any means as there are many climbing specific words, especially as you advance in skill level and take on advanced problems.
- Edging: This involves using the inner or outer edge of your shoe on a small hold where only your big or little toe is in contact with the hold. Which side of your foot that you use will depend on the particular hold as well as your style and comfort level with this technique.
- Smearing: If there isn’t a foothold nearby that you can use, sometimes smearing is a viable option to help maintain stability and contact with the wall. Smearing is useful on slabs (flat, angled walls) where you use the surface of your shoe under your forefoot to create friction. Choosing to smear is usually not as ideal as using a nearby foothold, however it can be very helpful in situations where you may not have the option
- Back Step: Starting out you will typically use a normal step by placing the inside edge of your shoe on a foothold with your knee pointing away from your body. However, it sometimes may be more advantageous to use a backstep, which involves using the outside edge of your foot on a foothold where the knee is now pointing inward. This often allows for the ability to fully extend your arms and brings your hip close to the wall so that you can rest if you are halfway through a difficult route.
- Drop Knee: Usually you will use a drop knee on a foothold that is around hip height. You will start with your toes resting straight forward on the hold, and then rotate your knee inward toward your body while your heel rotates and points outward. At this point your knee should be pointing down and the outside edge of your foot should be in contact with the hold. This is similar to a back step but has a greater degree of hip internal rotation and torque that will allow you to drive through your foot to progress up the wall.
- Mantle: This involves first placing your palm, wrist, or forearm on a surface at chest level or below, where you can push off of it by extending your arm. This can be used to advance your foot to your current hand position, or to push your body further up the wall to reach the next part of the route. This is also a common technique for “topping out” or climbing over the top of the wall after you send a route.
- Flagging: Flagging entails extending your leg away from your body where it is either not contacting the wall or only in slight contact. This seems counterintuitive at first, as it removes one point of contact from the wall. However, when used correctly it can significantly improve your center of balance and will be essential in order to complete parts of certain routes. It can be particularly useful when the other three holds are close to one side of your body and you need something to counterbalance your weight.
- Side Pull: A side pull can be used on a hold that is oriented vertically where the part you are holding onto is facing away from you. The name is pretty self explanatory as you are pulling yourself to the side and toward the hold.
I hope this mini-guide helps you communicate more effectively with your fellow climbers so that you can contribute to conversations or ask route specific questions. If you want to improve your performance with climbing or are dealing with any climbing related aches or pains, feel free to contact me at smonticello@fxphysicaltherapy.com
Author: Sam Monticello PT, DPT
